you can get/set the attrs like so:
getAttr pCube1.colorPerVertex.vertexColor[0].vertexColorRGB;
where the [0] is the vertex index in question. If you look at the mesh node doc it shows this attr heirarchy and also mentions for the vertexColor part of the attr: The attribute is a multi with the index of the multi identifying the vertex that the color applies to so you know it should be entered with the index syntax [n]
but, as I said, it always returns 0 even if you have a colour there...? very odd... although there is another, separate vertex face attr which may yield more results but to be honest I just can't be bothered to investigate it further... 
see also these old posts ewerybody:
http://www.highend3d.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=195237
http://www.highend3d.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=213248
and you're right, vertex colouring does seem to be a stagnant cess-pool..
:nathaN